HHO gas testing
Here we are cutting/melting various materials. You can see that the flame is not hot at all, I can wave my hand through the flame and it feels only warm. The first item is a thin iron hair clip. Then we are cutting a piece of silicon steel lamination. Then we melt the tip of a 4mm diameter stainless steel rod. The tip is melting, but I can safely hold the other end in my hand and it is only slightly warm. Then we are vaporizing a tungsten rod, you can see that there are lots of fumes. Then again a 1mm thick piece of steel. Then I am demonstrating how the flame condenses into water again. Then we are melting the surface of a ceramic plate (about 10k degrees). And at last we are melting a small piece of glass 
Hope you enjoyed it
nice job
good question..wish we have an answer
well, its not, you can test it for yourself. It is just as hot as candle flame when you wave your hand through it. Nevertheless the flame can boil the surface of stones. That is something that no one can truly explain, because in conventional situations, the flame must be hotter than the material it needs to melt, but this thing is a whole different story, maybe because of the implosion effect, I don’t know, but it is amazing.
how can the flame “not be hot” when you are melting glass and ceramic?
That’s what I was wondering. Wouldn’t the steel plates oxidize & corrode proportionately?
Perfect my friend,what do u use for backflash arrestor?
we are assembling a torch and was curious how large the opening is at the tip of your torch. We have a brazing tip and the opening is about a mm wide. What do you use? Great vid! Thanks for the demo!
Its how this device that manipulated
have your plates shown any sign of corrosion thus far?
I don’t really know what is the difference with those steel grades, I suppose both would work fine. I am using 304 grade steel, but 316 is better.
Teorētiski ar apkurināšanu nevajadzētu būt problēmu un izmantojot šo metodi tai būtu jābūt ļoti efektīvai, bet praktiski – nezinu. Šinī video HHO aparāts apēda ap 600W
I am using KOH and I found this to be the best electrolyte there is. Because as the water breaks in oxygen and hydrogen, the KOH remins in the electrolyte and all you need is to refill the water occasionally. And the gas this way is not toxic.
What electrolyte are you using? I have a minitorch and the cell is running on a mix of lye/vinegar and tapwater, and my flame is yellow!! And not so effective! I can’t get so much amperage out of baking soda, are there anything better to use?
should i use 316 #4 finish or 316 2B ?
juus neesat meeginaajushi apsildiit telpas ar hho liesmu? vai juus esat meeriijushi kilovatus? (have you tried to heat a room with hho gas? have you measured kilowatts?)
no, this is 304 grade stainless steel
do you use 316 stainless?
flapper valves wont work because the flame speed (or burn rate of HHO is approximately 3900 meters per second, way too fast for check-valves of any kind. The flashback arrester that he is running seems to work very well and safe. Very good job on the build. I would not take out the neutral plates because they tend to limit the amount of current that the cell can draw. Instead, i would increase electrolyte concentration to get more amps.
Hi all.
This electrolyzer cost me about 200$. But it is not perfect. There are simpler, cheaper and easier ways to built an electrolyzer of the same output and also smaller in dimensions. I will build one and make a video so you can see how its done.
BTW, in this video I used 30V 20A DC power.
how much money did you spent on this? (by the way it’s awesome) i am planing to build one, smaller!
what kind of power suply did you use? (how many volts and amps???)
Hallo.
I am from Germany .
What make you from the water.
I am also curious as to how many amps and at what voltage. That is a very well put together setup
what is your gas output.. voltage and amps in now?
o, i see. yes, pressure and output are definitely factors to cutting/welding easily.
i believe that we use 7 psi for the oxy-acetylene to maintain proper flame size.
as for blowback, have you tried spring loaded flapper valves? as soon as your pressure drops below the set amount, the flap will close and will prevent the flame from going backwards. a control valve before the nozzle may help with this as well, at least when shutting the unit off.
awesome work though, as usual